"contra.dictions","Threads for Cockaigne" and "Dystopian Brutalist Outerwear" by Martijn Van Strien. Martijn studied at Design Academy Eindhoven and at Konstfack University in Stockholm. He assisted fashion designer Bruno Pieters and was awarded a ‘Keep an Eye’ grant at Dutch Design Week.
After the economic downfall and the decline of our society life on this planet will be tough and unsure. For people to survive they will need a protective outer layer which guards them from the harsh conditions of every day life. Outerwear used to shield from heavy weather. A product that is at the same time highly functional and easy to industrially mass-manufacture.
This series of coats explores the possibilities of combining very durable but inexpensive materials with fast and effective ways of putting them together. To be functional at low cost, every piece consists of a single piece of heavy duty black tarpaulin and there are only straight cuts and sealed seams.
The extremely basic shapes are inspired by Brutalist architecture, a spawn from the Modernist architectural movement. It has an austere feeling due to the linear, fortresslike and blockish look. The style comes off cold, distant, sober and mysterious. These are the outfits that make it possible for man to live through a dark future.
images by Imke Ligthart
"Here the boundaries meet and all contradictions exist side by side."
Fyodor Dostoevsky in 'The Brothers Karamazov'.
Inspired by a man who travels the edges of his existence.
The cuts and patterns reflect his journey and originated in the buildings, bridges and other man-made structures he passed.
Made using high-tech equipment to turn unconventional materials into wearable pieces, this collection is an exploration into the future of fashion.
Taking a parallel path to the opportunities 3d-printing brings to product design, this technique makes one-of-a-kind, custom garments possible to exactly fit the “consumer’s” size and demands.
A 21st century approach to haute couture.
The Land of Cockaigne is a mythical land of plenty, an imaginary place of extreme luxury from medieval tales. Paintings depicting European kings and nobles of the era from the Dark Ages through to the Age of Enlightenment remind of this tale. They show a nearly dreamlike display of the most extravagantly chic clothes seen in man’s history. Nobility had themselves portrayed wearing clothes that made exuberant use of furs and delicate handcrafted materials such as quilts, embroideries and ruffled collars.
Inspired by these characters, lavishly showing off their wealth and status, I translated the materials and techniques used in their clothing into modern time, creating a contemporary ode to one of histories’ most luxurious fashion eras.
I created this series of 4 parts of garments by combining the processes of designing materials and designing clothing. The pieces make maximum use of the structural qualities of the textile to give shape to the final outfit. They could either be worn on their own or added to a garment. The textile isn’t cut or confectioned, only the endings of the fabric are brought together. By allowing the textile to show its unprocessed form, the final look of the product is prescribed by the choice of bindings made in the woven material.
Using new synthetic yarns I created textiles that have elastic and voluminous qualities at the same time. They evoke the look and feel of a historical type of attire in a new way.
images by Imke Ligthart
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